Hiking in Italy’s Ledro Valley: Lemons, flowers and the scars of war

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If you’re cycling along the Ponale road, the good news is that it will only take a half day to head a few hundred metres up hill – especially if you are on an e-bike. After all the huffing and puffing, you are rewarded with fabulous views of Lake Garda and the feeling that you have crossed an invisible border to another country. The higher valley is cooler, and fir and beech trees surround Lake Ledro, rather than pines and palm trees. Up here, you are far away from the busy holiday resort of Riva up here. The valley stretches “from the lemons to the edelweiss,” says Natalia Pellegrini, referri…

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